How to transform a Victorian internal solid panel door into a Victorian Stained Glass front door
13/07/2010 - By Tim Bell How to transform a Victorian internal solid panel door into a Victorian Stained Glass front door
How to transform a Victorian internal solid panel door into a Victorian Stained Glass front door
Owner of The Stained Glass Doors Company Tim Bell, explains how to convert a Victorian solid panelled internal door into a Stained Glass Victorian Front Door.
In terms of construction there is little difference between a Victorian front door and a victorian solid paneled internal door. They are both made using mortice and tennon joints. There is also a popular misconception that these joints were glued, but they were not. Wedges were inserted into the joints which allowed for expansion and contraction.
Similarly the solid bottom or top panels would have been floating panels i.e. again not fixed or glued to allow expansion and contraction. There would have been a 3-5mm expansion gap around each panel not so much on the top or bottom of the panel but to either side (widthways) which would avoid the splitting of panels during expansion or contraction. The addition of heavier, possibly bolection, moulding would often be added to the bottom outside panels to enhance the look , although flush moulding is also acceptable if well sealed in.
A front door would usually be approx. 44mm or 1 ¾ inches thick whereas the standard depth for an internal door is 35mm or 1 3/8 inches, but there were also (thankfully ) many 44mm or 1 ¾ inch internal doors also made. Many reclamation yards convert these doors and in the following article you will find all the information you will need to do this for yourself.
Stage 1: Firstly find a suitable door : The depth of most external doors is 44mm or 1 ¾ inches. You will need to find a good straight piece of timber or metal and check that the door is true i.e. not warped. You would be very lucky to find a completely flat door but it would be acceptable to have a ¼ inch tolerance top to bottom. Other than this, old lock apertures, splits or shakes etc. can be dealt with by filling with timber and a suitable plastic wood.
Stage 2: Place the door on trestles on a level surface. Remove the beading using a hammer and bolster or blunt chisel. Remove any nails and repeat on the other side of the door.
Stage 3: Drill 2 holes in the top corners of panels, cut out the panels with a jigsaw and remove the panels. Tip: You can buy a jigsaw quite cheap at stores such as B&Q, or even better, check to see if the father in law has one - a chance to earn DIY brownie points here.
Stage 4: Measure resulting gaps and infill with strips of wood ,this will stop the glass or stained glass panels from moving around. Also check that the panels are evenly spaced as this central "muntin" can move when the panels have been removed.
Stage 5: Add glazing bead. For this we use parting bead (available at any timber suppliers or builders yard) cut to 45 degree angles(using either a mitre saw or a handsaw and mitre block) and fix all-round using a nail gun or hammer and pins or nails (you can add spots of glue for extra strength).Check that the parting bead is "flush" or level to surrounding surface ,i have used a flat piece of oak for this purpose.
Stage 6: Adding a letterplate : Using a piece of timber, plywood or cardboard (a cereal packet would do) make a template of the aperture of the letterplate. Centre the template and draw around with a pencil. Next drill 4 holes and cut out with a jigsaw. At this point, if you have a router this can be used to tidy up the aperture as the cut of a jigsaw is fairly rough otherwise sand the area with course then medium then fine sandpaper. Drill 2 holes for the letterplate bolts and secure the letterplate.you could now fit a door knocker of your choice.
Stage 7: Fitting the stained glass panels : Add a thin line of putty to the beading (it's best to warm up the putty placing the tub of putty in warm water or working like you would for making dough will achieve this) will mean less pressure needed to be applied when pressing down on the stained glass panels thus avoiding breakage’s. Now remove excess putty using a puttyknife. At this point clear laminated safety glass could be added to the inside of the stained glass panels and then finally the parting bead (glazing bead). You could also add a weatherbar if needed i.e. if it's not protected in a porch.
N.B. If the door is to be varnished then the glazing bead will need to be stained, the best thing for this is the caustic liquid from a paint stripping tank. This will open up the grain and give a lovely antique pine look to new timber. If the door is to be painted I would recommend painting it before adding the stained glass panels or door furniture as this will result in a better finish and less work i.e. no need to cut in the paintwork around door fittings or stained glass panels. All that is left now is to add suitable hinges i recommend at least 3 100mm top quality hinges and a suitable 5 lever security rated deadlock or sashlock and a double locking nightlatch.
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Fill gaps with offcuts of timber and wood filler
Use a jigsaw to remove the old panels
Remove the old panels
